I think I missed something

I know I haven’t finished blogging about Germany.  I know I haven’t blogged about Croatia.  There are still several topics I need to write about, such as our tour of Berlin and the Berlin Wall, and ice cream in Croatia. 

That will have to wait a little longer.  (I know I’m lazy and could have done it last week while I enjoyed my one week of summer vacation.  I did upload my pictures to our group Shutterfly account, but that was as far as I got.)

I do need to blog about what I’m doing now though.  I’m in Richmond (sitting in an apartment on the University of Richmond campus) because I’m taking a week long grad class on the Holocaust and Genocide through the University of Richmond and the Virginia Holocaust Museum.  (Yes, VA has a Holocaust Museum.  I learned about this sometime last year I think?  It isn’t far from D.C., they realize that, but their approach is more hands on and story specific.  And it’s actually the 4th or 5th larges Holocaust museum in the country.)

The museum is really based on the story of Jay Ipson’s family.  The Ipson family lived through the Holocaust.  Thirteen, including Jay, survived.  He’s 75 now and still going strong.  He put a lot of work into the museum (as did many others) and wanted something really hands on, something to showcase what life was like,  without too much script around for people to read and they’ve accomplished that here.  Many of the exhibits are personal things.  The Kristallnacht portion for example shows the broken windows in the Woolworth’s in Berlin.  Jay’s father saw this destruction.  (And that Woolworth’s was attacked erroneously-it had a Jewish manager, but not a Jewish owner.) 

Our class began yesterday with a discussion of what genocide is, and examples of past genocide.  We discussed Armenia.  The Rape of Nanjing.  (Although many scholars have concluded that Nanjing was not genocide, but atrocoties of war-it was missing several components that make up genocide.) 

We also discussed the Herero genocide.  Who?  The Herero?  Never heard of them.  Did I skip class that day?  (That was something like my thought process.)  The Herero genocide occurred in the early 1900′s in what is now Namibia.  People expanded there for farming space, ran the Herero off their land, and decided to annihilate them.  They posioned their wells, pushed them into the desert where they died, or were turned into slaves and lived in a concentration camp.  There was even a death camp (the first one) on Shark Island.  Who committed this genocide against the Herero?  The Germans.  I had no idea.  And the Herero genocide influenced several key Nazi party members.  Hermann Göring’s father was a key offical during this time, and Göring idolized his father.  (He must have made daddy proud?)  Eugen Fisher, who would become the director of the Kaiser Wilhelm Institute for Anthropology, Human Heredity, and Eugenics, conducted “research” on Herero people in the concentration camps, concluding that they were inferior to the Germans.  The Kaiser Wilhelm Institute trained doctors for the Third Reich, including Mengele.  Why have I never heard of this?  I’m not sure.  It seems pretty important to me. 

We learned about that yesterday, during our first session.  This morning we talked about a few technical things needed when writing lesson plans and how they should be done (rationale statements and guiding questions.)  Then we went on a tour of the museum with a docent named Alex Keisch.  Alex is a Holocaust survivor, although he has no personal stories to share.  He (and his twin brother ) were born at Auschwitz on April 21, 1945, nine days before the war ended, and after the Germans had already vacated the camp. Alex’s parents were partisans and lived in the woods.  His father saved around 50 Jews during the war.  The story of Alex’s father is similar to that of the Bielski brothers, who are well known.  The movie Defiance was based on their actions during the war.  One day Alex’s father and a few others were caught.  They were marched in a line, hands tied behind their back, on a path through the woods.  A funeral procession passed going in the other direction.  The mourners and prisoners looked similar-heads down, hands behind their back.  Alex’s father waited, turned around, and became the last mourner in the funeral line and escaped capture. 

His father did not trust the Soviets though, so the family went to West Berlin and were in a Red Cross camp.  Alex’s mother unfortunately got sick and died due to lack of medical care in 1948.  She was about 22.  He did not find out where her grave was until 2004, and he was finally able to visit it and place a stone on his mother’s grave.  (I’m sure you know, but Jews place a rock on a headstone to show that someone who cared about the person buried there came to visit.) 

After the war, a Jewish businessman in Hartford, Connecticut, signed a piece of paper stating that he was hiring Alex’s father to work for him.  They never even met this person, but they did need a signature saying that Alex’s father would have employment, which is how they wound up in the United States. 

Alex doesn’t have an accent, and if you saw him on the street you would never know he was a Holocaust survivor.  He’s very funny and knows a lot of information, and was an excellent tour guide.  He speaks very matter of factly about his family’s experience and is willing to share those experiences. We all would have liked more time with him. 

This afternoon we talked about Judaism, who is a Jew, and the centuries of persecution they have faced, as well as how they were (are?) viewed/portrayed by people and the Church.  Tomorrow we’re discussing WWI and the Rise of Hitler and non-Jewish victims of the Holocaust among other things.  Wednesday evening we have a dinner with Holocaust survivors, followed by a question and answer period.

My problem is now coming up with 5 lesson plans (due next Friday!) that make up the final requirement for this class and will give me my 3 graduate credit hours.  Another thing floating around in the back of my mind (since I’ve got to work on my Master’s in History) is perhaps finding an avenue to pursue should I choose to write a thesis.  I’m thinking the Herero genocide (and how it influenced the Holocaust maybe?) might be something to look into.

Sachsenhausen

I’ll do my best with the next couple of posts, although I can’t promise anything.  We’re in Berlin now, after an extremely busy day.  I’m loving Berlin, except for the internet in the hotel.  I’m sitting in the lobby so I can pick up the wireless, and I can’t get the ethernet cable to work in my room.  My book with all my notes?  In my room.  I’ll try to remember what I can, but it was really information overload.  I know the last few posts haven’t been great since I was in the internet cafe, so I apologize for that.

Anyway, the first thing we did today was check out of our hotel in Schwerin and hop on a bus to head to Sachsenhausen.  Sachsenhausen is located in Oranienburg, and was the first concentration camp built.  This was not an extermination camp like Auschwitz, but rather a work and training camp.  The camp is atually in the town, and businesses moved into the area to take advantage of the labor provided by the prisoners in the camp.  This was the model concentration camp, that all other camps were modeled after.  All of the SS guards for all the other camps were trained here.  (Later the Soviets trained people here.  Oranienburg uses it today to train their police.)

Sachsenhausen was a triangle, which was considered the best shape for a camp because it offered the best views of the entire camp from the three guard towers at the corners.  Many of the barracks are gone.  After the camp was abandoned, the townspeople tore them down to use the materials to rebuild their homes, which has been destroyed in the war.  There is a large screen now that shows where the barracks stood.

The Jewish barracks are still there.  If you’ve seen the movie “The Lives of Others” this is where the Jewish counterfeiting team was kept.  Unfortunately someone set it on fire in 1992, so some of it was rebuilt and what’s left is still charred from the fire.  There is also an exhibit that has some of their counterfeit British pounds on display. 

Sachsenhausen did have a small gas chamber and creamatorium.  It’s the ruins now, but you can still see the outline of the entire floor plan and they have a good explanation laid out so you can see what rooms were used for. 

The camp was pretty big and open, and you’re able to walk around at your own pace.  We had about an hour and a half, so we couldn’t see everything but we did the best we could.  It’s very quiet and I don’t know if we were just there at a good time, but we managed to avoid most of the tour groups so for many of these buildings I was in there with only one or two other people from my group and that is kind of creepy.  I think the prison block with all the empty cells was the creepiest.  It was just a long hallway with many doors on each side that opened up into a small cell. 

The Soviets built a memorial at Sachsenhausen, although since it is located in what was East Germany, the only victims they commemorated were the Communist political prisoners.  Other things were added later to commemorate the other victims. 

Really the whole place was kind of quiet and eerie.  We easily avoided groups so you actually had time to reflect on what happened here, unlike at Auschwitz I where it was too crowded to do more than skim the information.  It was similar to Birkenau in the way you got to tour on your own, although I was very aware of the difference in the two types of camps.

We did a lot more than Sachsenhausen today, but it’s very late and I do have to be up for a tour tomorrow.  Plus I don’t know that you should talk about anything other than Sachsenhausen.  So I’ll save the tour of Berlin for tomorrow.

What a weekend

I spent this past weekend in Washington D.C.  I’d been looking forward to this trip for several weeks, especially since I stay pretty busy with work, the part time job, and trying to squeeze in a run every now and then, not to mention the tedious things I have to do like laundry or grocery shopping.  So it was a highly anticipated weekend getaway. 

The whole purpose of the trip was to participate in a focus group for the Smithsonian.  (Yes, the Smithsonian!)  The National Museum of the American Indian (henceforth referred to as NMAI) and the National Museum of African American History and Culture (henceforth referred to as NMAAHC) have joined together to create an exhibit called “Indivisible.”  It focuses on people who are of Native American and African American descent.  This will be a traveling exhibit and the museums were looking for feedback on the exhibit as well as some resources they’re trying to put together for teachers.  I signed Sarah and I up for it immediately.  (Who wouldn’t want something with Smithsonian in front of it on their resume?) 

Anyway, so that was the entire point of the trip.  We met at the NMAI.  The group offered input on how multiculturalism is taught in their districts, and the challenges associated with it.  When viewed the exhibit, offered our input on that, and then took part in a primary sources activity, which they hope to make available to teachers for classroom activities.  (To me it was interesting, I won’t bore you with those details.)

After the primary source activity, the museum coordinators gave closing comments and we were done.  Now we had the rest of the weekend to be touristy. 

I really felt like I needed to see the Holocaust Museum, especially after visiting Auschwitz and Birkenau this summer.  So we headed there first.  We only had about two hours before the musem closed, but that was enough time.  I guess I really should have seen the museum before I went to the camps.  I hate to say that I breezed through some parts, but I don’t know any other way to describe it.  A lot of the artifacts were on loan from the museum at Auschwitz and when you’ve actually stood in a barracks at Birkenau, seeing one single bunk (even one from Birkenau) doesn’t hit you in the same way.  I’ve since talked to people who have visited the Holocaust Museum who were very moved and upset by the exhibit.  I’m certainly not trying to say it wasn’t moving or upsetting, but I guess a musem exhibit just pales in comparison to having actually visited the camp.  I think the museum would have been more meaningful if I had been able to visit before going to Auschwitz.  I am glad I was able to visit it, but it is more meaningful to see the camp firsthand. 

We ended Saturday on a high note, with dinner at Fogo de Chao.  If you’ve never been to Fogo de Chao, it will sound like a mythical place that can’t possibly exist, but I assure you it does.  It’s a Brazilian steakhouse, with a great salad buffet, although this is not why you eat at this particular restaurant.  When you are seated, you have a disk.  One side is red, the other green.  When the green side of your disk is face up, men will bring you meat.  There are 15 different types of meat, and whenever a guy with meat comes by he will stop at your table and offer whatever he has to you.  When you don’t want anymore meat, you flip the disk over to the red side.  And on and on it goes, as long as you can eat.  About dinner, I can only say that I love the man with the bacon wrapped filet mignon. 

Sunday we visited the American History Museum first.  I’m sorry to say that I wasn’t overly impressed with the exhibits.  They had a good one on Lincoln, and the exhibit they have now (for the NMAAHC, since their museum has yet to be built) was interesting, but nothing really struck me.  The best thing was seeing the flag that inspired Key to write “The Star Spangled Banner.”  (That exhibit has changed since I last saw it-they no longer hang the flag, it’s instead laid out flat.) 

Then we were off to the WWII Monument, since Sarah and Tony had never seen it.  The water was gone, I guess they turned it off due to the weather?  (Speaking of weather, yes there was still snow everywhere, most of the sidewalks were cleared, it was still slushy in some places.)  After that we continued on towards the Lincoln Memorial.  When we saw all the people walking on the Reflecting Pool in front of the memorial, we stopped and stared, and then immediately joined them.  We walked the entire length of the Reflecting Pool from the WWII Monument to the Lincoln Memorial.  The ice was starting to crack in a few places, but it was still pretty thick and supported us with no trouble at all.  It was the coolest part of the weekend, walking on the pool.  And how often do you get to take a picture of the Lincoln Memorial from dead on like that?

We made our way down the length of the pool and met Leonard, who also happened to be in D.C. that weekend.  He was nice enough to drive us to the hotel to pick up our bags, and then we went with him to Georgetown Cupcakes.  None of us had been.  We parked in some small lot and walked the couple of blocks to this place.  It was a corner store, with the door on the side street and a line that wrapped around the corner onto the main street.  We waited in line for at least a half an hour to order a half dozen cupcakes.  They were delicious, and the Key Lime was my favorite.  Jeff and I each got 3, and sadly, they are all gone.  (Not to worry-they ship nationwide!) 
That was our last stop before heading back.  (With Leonard being nice enough again to drop us off at the Franconia Springfield station so we didn’t have to take the metro.)  It was a packed weekend, especially considering that we spent several hours at the NMAI in the focus group.  (It is an intereseting exhibit-check it out.)  I was completely worn out when we got home, but I think it was well worth it. 

Shouldn’t we be able to learn German with relative ease?

I have been trying to learn German for just over a month now.  I try to practice a little everyday, of course I don’t spend as much time on it as I would like.  I really don’t remember anything from the on semester I took in college, so I feel like I’m starting from scratch.  I think I’m doing ok, especially since I’m learning on my own.  I’m using several resources:  Rosetta Stone, Livemocha, Amazon (for all sorts of books), and have even joined Der Deutsche Stammtisch, a local German meetup group.  A friend mentioned today that English speakers should be able to learn German pretty easily, since English is a derivative of the Germanic language.  I wish this were true, and maybe it is for some people, although I do not feel like I’m picking it up easier than Spanish.  (But I also do not feel that I’m really having a harder time than I did with Spanish.)  For me it just comes down to studying and practice. 

I was a little nervous about joining the German meetup group, since my vocabulary is very limited and I know I wouldn’t be able to really join in a conversation anytime soon.  It looks like they meet about once a month, and the first meetup that I could attend is in mid February.  I can’t decide if I’ll attend.  I’d like to go and at least listen (and eat German food) but it’s also the day before I head to D.C. to take part in a focus group for the Smithsonian. 

I’m really excited about the focus group.  I’ve never participated in one before, and neither has Sarah, the other specialist for Portsmouth, she’ll be part of it as well.  They’re putting together a traveling exhibit, which the group will get to check out.  It’s taking place at the Museum of the American Indian.  I’ve been there once several years ago when they opened the museum.  Jeff and I are going, as well as Sarah and her husband, and we’ll spend Saturday in D.C. and part of Sunday so that we can visit a few other museums while we’re there.  I want to visit the Holocaust Museum since I’ve never been and the newly renovated American History Museum.

Speaking of the Holocaust Museum, tomorrow is Holocaust Rememberance Day and the 65th anniversay of the liberation of Auschwitz.  There are of course many activities planned in Poland.  It’s sad to note that the main gate at Auschwitz will not be hung in time for the ceremonies.  They’re not even sure they’ll ever hang it up again.  That really makes me sad, that these five guys might prevent millions of visitors from seeing such an important part of history.

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